Western Horse Fitness

A good program for the Western Horse Fitness will improve his athleticism, by strengthening his muscles while developing balance and self-carriage. Another important aspect is keeping him alert and happy in his job.

Each training session should start with loosening and warming up the horse correctly before moving onto exercises which work different areas of his body.

Loosen Up Your Horse

Purpose of Loosening-Up

Jec Ballou is nationally recognized as an educator on equine conditioning and gymnastic development. In Western Dressage Exercise – Controlled Wandering, she stresses the importance of warming up the horse properly before asking him to perform more strenuous movements.

She points out that when a horse is at rest only 15% of his blood flows to the muscles that move his limbs.

During exercise this percentage rises dramatically to 85% as blood is transferred from his organs and metabolism to the larger skeletal muscles. This provides them with the power to move more energetically.

But this transfer does take several minutes. The horse’s body first needs to be loosened up slowly and gently to increase the blood and joint fluid circulation.

This will keep your horse supple and easier to ride as well as reducing his risk of injury.

Your horse can also relax at the beginning of every ride, knowing that he has time to ‘chill’ before more exacting work is demanded of him.

How to Loosen-Up Your Horse

Ms. Ballou suggests riding your horse on the buckle when you first start out. She calls her system “controlled wandering” and it consists of moving leisurely around the arena “in creative loops and turns,” riding figures and patterns not normally included in your daily work routine.

Remember, this is his time to take it easy. Relax in the saddle and allow the horse to amble comfortably with guidance from your seat and legs rather than your reins, and don’t try to get him ‘on the bit.’

Ms. Ballou also advocates loosening the horse up with “calisthenics (backing up, carrot stretches, stepping over ground poles).”

This phase should take five to eight minutes, but an older horse will benefit from even longer. After this, the rider progresses to the warm-up.

Warming-Up Your Horse

Purpose of Warm-Up

Ms. Ballou emphasizes that this is a separate phase from loosening-up. Its purpose is to increase the horse’s body temperature and makes him suppler.

How to Warm-Up

Warm-up consists of steady, energetic exercise and “should be plenty active—brisk jogging, lope transitions, circling, transitions.”

Once your horse is moving happily forward, supple and ‘engaging his back’ he is ready for the day’s training routine.

Dressage Training Can Get Your Western Horse Fit

Dale Rudin notes that regularly riding basic dressage movements will increase your Western horse’s athleticism and fitness, while making him more flexible. It will give him “greater endurance and resistance to injury.”

He reminds those who are intimidated by the term ‘dressage’ that it simply means ‘training’ in French and says: “Just do it, and reap the benefits in enhanced performance.”

First Bend Your Horse

Purpose of Bending Your Horse

Mr. Rudin explains that bending your horse creates softness and suppleness in his entire body, which must be achieved before performing any other exercises.

The horse’s body should be “perfectly aligned from head to tail, mirroring the shape of the arc, arena corner or any other curving path that he travels.”

How to Bend Your Horse

He should be ridden in a snaffle, with you sitting balanced in the saddle. Your contact should be the same in both reins: the inside rein bends the head and neck of the horse, and establishes the degree of bend.

Your outside rein provides the outer limit of the bend to stop over bending. The horse should move between a channel formed by your reins.

Figures of eight ridden at different speeds, sizes and gaits will stretch and supple your horse’s muscles and make them more flexible.

See The Bending Horse and Rider for more on how to correctly bend your horse,

Two-Tracking aka Leg-Yielding

Purpose of the Leg-Yield

This is one of the lateral movements which build the horse’s topline and hind end. As Mr. Rudin explains, the horse uses the muscles in these areas for the slow, collected paces. Thus lateral work is “indispensable” preparation for “tasks such as lope transitions, pivots on the front and hind ends, and lead changes.”

He describes the leg-yield as “like a sidepass on the go” where the horse has to move sideways and forwards at the same time. It is more easily performed in walk and trot, but a well-balanced horse can leg-yield in canter.

In addition to strengthening his back and hind end, this exercise loosens up the horse’s shoulders and his front end becomes lighter. The result is better balance and longer strides, and the horse moves with more expression.

How to Leg-Yield

The leg-yield should be performed in a snaffle.

For a leg-yield to the left, ride your horse down the center line, flex his head to the right, keeping outside left rein contact, and nudge him over with your right leg just behind the cinch. His right front and hind legs should cross in front of his left legs while he moves forwards and laterally.

Ask your horse for a gentle sideways line of travel with his body straight. If his quarters trail, stop the movement, straighten him out for a few strides, and ask for leg-yield again.

Shoulder-In

Purpose of the Shoulder-In

The shoulder-in is another great way to strengthen and loosen up your horse, and make him more flexible. This movement shifts weight off his front end and transfers it to his hind end.

The result is improved self-carriage, which is a pre-requisite for collection. Without collection your horse will be unable to perform – among other things – his lead changes.

As Ludvik K Stanek explains in Collection: Balance/Energy, collection is achieved when the horse is in balance under his rider, who ‘collects’ his mount’s energy (containing it with his seat, legs and hands) thereby creating the impulsion the horse needs to perform difficult tasks with greater ease.

Collection requires strength in the horse, and the shoulder-in targets the muscles he uses to achieve it.

How to Perform the Shoulder-In

This is usually ridden on the rail. The horse shifts his shoulders inwards and moves forwards on three tracks.

His inside foreleg is on one track, his outside foreleg and inside hind leg are on a second track, and his outside hind leg travels on the outside track.

Maintain your horse’s bend, and bring his shoulders in by moving both reins inwards. In the beginning your outside rein will probably lie on his outside withers while your inside rein stays next to his withers.

Your seat should be parallel to the line of his shoulders, your inside leg applies pressure on the cinch, and your outside leg is slightly back to keep contact with the center of his ribcage.

Don’t make the angle of the shoulder-in too steep (otherwise the horse will be working on four tracks in a virtual leg-yield) and ensure that he stays bent round your inside leg to get the maximum benefit from this exercise.

The Western horse needs to be athletic and strong, balanced and in self-carriage to do his job happily with the minimum risk of injury. The above exercises will increase his fitness, enabling him to work efficiently in relaxed co-operation with his rider. 

Resources & Further Reading

Jec Ballou

Western Dressage Exercise – Controlled Wandering

How to Engage Your Horse’s Back

Bodybuilding for the Western Horse:

Use bending and suppling exercises borrowed from dressage to improve your western horse

The Bending Horse and Rider 

Dressage Exercise – Leg-Yielding

Shoulder-In

Dressage Exercise – Shoulder-In

Collection: Balance/Energy 

Stretching Exercises for Your Horse

Western Dressage Training

A series of articles about Western Dressage training

Adopting a Rescue Horse

Should You Consider Adopting a Rescue Horse?

Thousands of horses in rescue facilities are in desperate need of a loving new home, and you’d like to give one a second chance. There are many benefits to adopting a rescue horse, but how can you be sure it’s the right choice for you?

The following information can help you determine whether adoption is the best way to find your new horse.

6 Reasons to Adopt a Rescue Horse

The rescue facility wants to ensure a good fit

A reputable rescue operation will be anxious for its horses to go to the right person. The animals have been through a lot of trauma already, and the facility won’t knowingly send an equine to the wrong home.

It’s not in the best interests of the horse or the reputation of the rescue group.

The rescue facility will take the horse back

If, despite the organization’s best attempts to match you with the perfect horse, the relationship doesn’t work out, you can return the horse. In fact, adoption rules usually insist on your giving the animal back in the event you don’t want it or can’t keep it any more.

For example, the guidelines of the Heart of Phoenix Equine Rescue state: “Horses adopted through our rescue can NEVER be sold, given away, leased or otherwise removed from the home we place them in except to be returned to the rescue.”

This is a huge advantage over buying a horse from a dealer or private owner. Sellers sometimes ask for right of first refusal, but most leave you with the burden of finding the horse a new home if you and he don’t get on.

You’re given a realistic assessment of the horse

Rescue horses are handled and, where appropriate, worked for several months before they are put up for adoption. This affords the operation plenty of time to assess the type of home he should go to.

Being keen to place horses with appropriate homes, rescue management will be honest with you about the horse’s temperament, state of health and the job for which he is suited. You will be made truthfully aware of the horse’s history to the best of their knowledge.

The horse is well-cared for and up-to-date on his shots

Reputable facilities not only carry out thorough health checks of their horses, they also give them all their vaccinations, float their teeth, trim their hooves and provide a negative Coggins.

According to Jose Castro, DVM, Dipl. ACVS, ABVP, clinical instructor for equine field services with the University of Tennessee’s Large Animal Clinical Services, “reputable rescues will provide prospective owners with the adoptable horse’s medical, dental, and farrier records.”

You should also receive contact information for those who have cared for the horse in the past.

The satisfaction of giving a horse a second chance

Many of these horses have suffered terrible abuse and neglect through no fault of their own, and deserve to find a forever home where they will be appreciated and well taken care of.

If you do find the right rescue horse, you’ll feel wonderful about giving him a new lease on life and the bond you form with him will be extra special because of his background.

Some facilities let you foster before you adopt

If you find a horse that you think will suit, but are still on the fence about adopting him, most facilities need foster homes for their horses.

Offer to foster a horse and take the time to find out if he’s the one you are looking for. Some rescues, such as Angels Haven Horse Rescue, offer pre-adoption leases for this purpose.

It is a great way to try out a horse, without feeling bad if you don’t gel with him.

4 Horse Adoption Mistakes to Avoid

Don’t adopt if you’re a beginner

Rescue horses often have health and/or behavioral issues. They need an experienced horse person to handle and retrain them and a rookie rider is not the person to do this. Katherine Blocksdorf explains this in her article, Buying a Rescue Horse.

A beginner is likely to run into problems which can lead to a dangerous situation. Such horses are best left to more seasoned equestrians.

Don’t listen to your emotions

Beware of falling in love at first sight with a rescue horse or feeling sorry for him. This is the quick path to acquiring an unsuitable horse. Take a sensible horse person with you to stop you doing this!

The rescue staff will try to keep you on track, but a friend or trainer whom you trust, who knows your temperament and how well you ride, is the ideal companion to bring along to your appointment at the rescue facility.

Not checking out the rescue facility

Do your homework before approaching a rescue organization about a horse. Jose Castro, DVM, Dipl. ACVS, ABVP, says that “it’s critical that prospective owners ensure that rescues offering horses for adoption have a good reputation for making successful matches.”

Talk to people who’ve had dealings with them. Dr. Jennifer Williams says, “It’s a good sign when an adopter acquires a second horse from the organization or continues to volunteer.”

Not understanding the level of help the horse may need

Even if you’re an experienced horse person, you need to be sure that you have the skills to deal with any behavioral problems your new horse may have. He will have undergone rehabilitation at the rescue barn, but will likely need you to continue working on his issues.

Take the time to watch him being trained by the rescue staff, ask lots of questions, and be honest about your own ability to deal with the horse you’re interested in.

There are many advantages to adopting a horse. You’ll receive plenty of information and support from the rescue organization, which is keen for you to have a successful relationship with your new equine. And you can return the animal if things don’t work out.

Once you do find the right equine, the rewards will be huge – for both of you.

Resources & Further Reading

Red Bucket Rescue FAQ

Red Bucket Rescue Adoption Process

Adoption Guidelines

http://angelshavenhorserescue.com/adoption-guidelines/

http://www.thehorse.com/articles/28712/demographics-of-equine-donation-and-adoption-examined

Characteristics of relinquishing and adoptive owners of horses associated with U.S. nonprofit equine rescue organizations.

http://www.thehorse.com/articles/26560/horse-welfare-wars-when-emotion-and-fact-collide-aaep-2010

http://horses.about.com/od/buyingyourfirsthorse/a/buyingarescuehorse.htm On the dangers of rescuing a horse as your first horse ever

http://www.horses-and-horse-information.com/horserescue.shtml Good source of information about various aspects of horse rescue and adoption

http://www.wvhorserescue.org/guidelines.html Very good rescue info

Starting a Young Horse

Starting a Young Horse

Starting a young horse is an exciting prospect. You’ll notice we’re not ‘breaking’ him, because that term describes the very opposite of our goal.

The process should be enjoyable for the horse, so he is willing to do whatever his rider asks of him.

Getting Comfortable

Most horses are ready to begin their training around their third birthday

First, “your horse must see you as his ‘comfort zone,’” writes Richard Maxwell in From Birth to Backing. This book was my bible when I backed my own horse, and I cannot recommend it highly enough.

Additionally, Uwe Spenlen, a German FEI judge and international riding instructor, stresses the need to appreciate each horse’s temperament: “Only those who constantly strive to understand the nature of horses will treat them correctly.”

He warns against ‘instilling fear and resistance’ into young horses.

Join-Up

Join-up is a technique popularized by Monty Roberts and advocated by Maxwell, a student of his. The horse learns to see you as a trustworthy leader whom he wants to follow.

Join-up lays the ideal foundation for a young horse’s training and is best performed in a round pen.

Accepting the Tack

A good join-up is important before putting any equipment on your horse, so that he “knows where to go for reassurance,” according to Maxwell.

Well before it’s time to back him, accustom him to wearing a surcingle, followed by the saddle, in his stall. Add a bridle with no noseband and a brow band which doesn’t pinch his ears.

The horse’s back and teeth should be checked before putting on the saddle and bridle: “you do not want him to associate them with pain,” says Maxwell.

Once the horse is relaxed with the equipment in his stall, let him loose in the round pen. First put on the surcingle so he can get used to the feel of moving with it on, then graduate to the saddle and bridle, without the reins.

Be confident in all your movements. If you think’s this is all normal, so will he.

Lunging/Long Reining

Spenlen highly recommends lunging “for preparing to train under saddle, because it gets the young horse used to work, helps it to understand the aids and obedience and improves rhythm and looseness.”

Maxwell prefers long reining, as he feels lunging will confuse the horse after join-up.

This is a matter of preference. I wasn’t experienced with long-reins so I lunged my horse, and he was fine with it.

On the lunge the trot is the pace where “most horses find it easier to acquire certain looseness and start to let the neck drop,” according to Spenlen.

Maxwell warns against expecting perfection on day one: “once the horse understands the concept of stopping and turning that is probably enough for the day.”

Lunge sessions should not take longer than twenty minutes, with frequent changes of direction. When the horse has learned to walk, trot and canter calmly on the lunge, Spenlen adds side reins. These should not exert pressure on the horse’s mouth, side bar or poll.

They can be shortened very gradually, but only to teach the horse to “stretch towards the bit and not to shorten the neck.” They should be the same length, with the horse’s nose on or just in front of the vertical – never behind the vertical.

However, Spenlen stresses that rhythm is much more important than contact at this stage. Rhythm results from the horse being balanced, while moving naturally and loosely, and is the first phase of the Training Scale.

Backing

Approach backing with confidence and your horse will not think he has reason to worry. As Maxwell says, he is in part already backed “if he is happily carrying all the equipment he needs in order to be ridden” and listening obediently to commands from the ground.

Begin by working him as usual in an enclosed area to give him “the opportunity to move freely and achieve a certain relaxation,” Spenlen says.

You’ll need a helper to hold the horse while you mount for the first time who keeps things relaxed, and doesn’t grip the horse tightly or he’ll panic.

Attach the lunge line to the bit. A lead rein coupling attached to both bit rings will prevent the bit from sliding through the horse’s mouth if your helper needs to exert any pressure on it. A neck strap is also a good idea, for the rider to grab if necessary without upsetting the horse.

A leg-up is the best way to get on the horse’s back. Don’t immediately sit up in the saddle, but lie across it on your stomach. Talk to your horse all the while, and stroke his neck on the other side. It will be the first time he’s seen you on both sides of him at once!

Practice legging up and leaning over your horse several times, from both sides, while your handler holds him lightly.

Keep your upper body low at first, with weight not fully in the saddle, and quickly place your feet in the stirrups to help you balance evenly on the horse’s back.

Gradually raise your body. Once he accepts you sitting up, remain there for a few minutes before dismounting.

Spenlen says, “With nervous or very uptight horses it may be better to let them walk immediately to avoid building up more tension.” Then have your helper gradually bring him back to a halt for dismounting.

Maxwell warns that the horse may be more concerned by your weight coming off his back than when it went on. Have your handler keep chatting to him reassuringly as you get out of the saddle.

Repeat the process of mounting and dismounting several times.

First Ride

Initially, the handler controls the movements of the very unbalanced horse, so begin with a few steps and no contact on the reins. The rider should lean forward slightly and hold the neck strap so as not to get left behind if the horse suddenly stops or lurches forwards.

When the horse understands the handler’s requests to start and stop, the rider should then apply rein and leg aids in conjunction with those cues. The handler then becomes less involved until the rider is dictating the pace.

When it’s safe, remove the lead rein.

You are now riding your horse.

Use minimal rein contact, and steer him with an open rein. To ask for halt, use your voice while pulling gently on the reins and your neck strap.

Instead of carrying a whip, flick the end of the reins on his withers to ask him to move forward. Maxwell suggests carrying a soft rope to tickle him behind your leg as an irritant, rather than a punishment.

Trot and Canter

Ask for trot early on by employing voice and leg aids, with no rein contact. Request just a few strides at a time: your horse is still very unbalanced with you on him.

He’ll find cantering easier but a small circle is hard work for him. So choose a wide open space for the first canter. He’ll tire quickly as he’s not fit enough to keep going at this stage.

Trail Riding

I followed Maxwell’s advice to take a newly-backed horse out alone on the trails early on in his training. Seven days after starting him, I took my gelding out on his own.

Since then he has been perfectly happy to go out on the trails alone or in company.

If your horse has learned to trust you before you back him, the actual process of teaching him to carry a rider will be a natural progression of his training.

Approach backing with confidence. It will be a calm event and a stepping stone on the route to a rewarding partnership with your horse.

Resources & Further Reading

From Birth to Backing By Richard Maxwell, David and Charles (October 26, 2001

Monty Roberts

Monty Roberts Join-up with Martin Clunes’s Horse   Watch this video for a light-hearted look at join-up!

The Dressage Training Scale: Prerequisites

Horsemanship How-To: Use an Opening Rein

Behind the Vertical Explained

Improve Your Winter Riding

10 Ways to Improve Your Winter Riding

The onset of winter weather doesn’t have to keep you out of the saddle.

Even without an indoor arena, extra care of both your equine partner and yourself, combined with smart planning, will enable you to exercise your horse throughout the cold months to improve your winter riding.

The Horse

1 Prevent Snow Stilts

Snow quickly accumulates inside horses’ hooves, until they’re wobbling on giant snowballs. Apply non-stick cooking spray or petroleum jelly on the frogs and soles to prevent this before turn out and riding.

Katherine Blocksdorf suggests putting shoe pads on to minimize snow build-up, or removing shoes where possible.

2 Warm Bit

Warming the bit is a kindness to your horse. Place it in hot water as soon as you get to the barn, and it will be a comfortable temperature when you’re ready to put on the bridle. If hot water isn’t available, use your hands.

3 Drying Off

After riding make sure your horse is completely dry before you turn him back out with a waterproof blanket of an appropriate denier count.

4 Food & Shelter

Ensure your horse has constant access to de-iced water. Heated water buckets in the stalls and heaters in outdoor water troughs will prevent the water from freezing.

He’ll need extra feed to generate warmth as well as energy. Older horses also need additional forage, and good quality hay should be freely available.

Provide shelter from the elements so he can get out of the driving wind and snow.

The Rider

5 Appropriate Riding Attire

Dress in layers: you can shed some during exercise and put the layers back on when needed.

Riding with numb, frozen toes is miserable, and warm riding boots such as Mountain Horse Ice High Rider Wide Tall Boots provide a great solution. They cost under $100 and are insulated, extremely comfortable, durable and waterproof.

Wear the thickest gloves you can which allow you to use your fingers.

6 Drink Up

Hydration is as important for you as your horse, so remember to drink plenty of water after riding.

The Ride

7 Take Your Time

As your riding schedule becomes more haphazard, your horse’s fitness level will decrease. Reduce your expectations of him, as he won’t be able to cover the distances or keep up the pace you’re used to.

8 Check Your Route

If possible, examine the safety of the trail where you intend to ride before mounting up, especially if there’s been a snowfall and/or deep freeze since the last time you rode there.

Begin by walking your horse for longer than usual to warm up his muscles, and trot only where it’s safe. Don’t canter or gallop on slippery terrain.

9 Frozen Arena?

If you have a sand arena but are unable to ride because of ice or snow, consider adding a product called Mag Flakes which acts as a de-icer in winter.

10 Trailering

If driving conditions are safe, trailer your horse to a neighbor’s indoor arena.

Although riding in the winter can be a challenge, it’s more fun to get in the saddle whenever possible than suffer months of withdrawal symptoms!

Resources & Further Reading

Tips for Riding Safely and Comfortably in Winter

Winter Horseback Riding Tips

How to Care for Your Horse in Winter

Blanket Q & A from SmartPak

Clipping Your Horse

Deciding When to Clip Your Horse and How

Horse Clipping; not every horse needs clipping in winter, but under certain circumstances you may want to consider removing part, or all, of his coat.

The usual time to begin is from September to October. The hair will grow back, so you’ll need to repeat the process at three to four week intervals during the cold months. The final clip is in January.

Why Clip Your Horse?

As daylight hours decrease with the onset of fall, your horse will start to grow a thicker coat. If you plan to ride regularly during the cold months, clipping your animal reduces the amount he sweats and allows him to dry off faster after work. It also takes a lot less time to groom a clipped horse!

What Type of Clip Is Best?

The amount of coat to remove depends on your horse’s anticipated work load and his living conditions.

Note: After being clipped your horse will need blankets to keep warm, as he’ll have lost his natural protection against the elements.

A full clip is suitable for horses being exercised hard throughout the winter, and stabled with no pasture turnout. It entails removing all the horse’s hair: not only from his body, but also his head, ears and legs.

A hunter clip leaves hair on the saddle area to keep it protected, and on the legs for warmth. In some cases the lower half of the head is left untouched. This clip suits horses in medium to hard work.

The blanket clip is another good choice for horses in regular winter work. The hair from the head, neck, under belly and part of the rump is removed, leaving the legs warm and protected. The large area of coat left on the body resembles the shape of a blanket.

A trace clip suits a horse in light to medium work if he is turned out during daylight hours. The hair is removed from the lower half of the neck, chest, stomach and upper part of the hind legs where the horse sweats most. The low trace clip leaves more hair on than the high trace clip, where the lower half of the head hair is removed, and more is taken off the neck, barrel and hind end.

The Irish clip removes only the hair round the head, neck and chest area which makes it perfect for horses in light work and turned out in the daytime.

Its cousin, the bib clip, takes the coat off just the front of the neck and chest areas. This is useful if your horse is turned out year round.

The horse clipping website created by Lister Shearing Equipment suggests giving a bib clip to a horse that hasn’t previously been clipped as a good introduction to the process.

The clipping styles you choose will depend on how hard your horse will work and what his turn-out situation is.

If your riding will be intermittent during the cold months, he is best left with a full winter coat. Plan extra time after exercise to dry him off before he is turned out again – with a blanket, if appropriate.

Resources & Further Reading

Types of Horse Clip

Clipping Horses

How to Clip a Horse

About Body Clipping

How to Clip a Horse for the First Time (video)

Clipping Challenges (video)

The Big Chill

Horse and Pony Care in Autumn and Winter

Lister Shearing Equipment

Stallion Social Deprivation

Does Your Stallion Have to Live in Solitary Confinement?

A stallion’s life is a lonely one when he’s turned out by himself and stabled where he’s unable to socialize with other horses.

Like mares and geldings, stallions thrive on interaction with other equines, and social deprivation is a sad existence for them. It also creates more work for their owners.

An Alternative Life-Style

In 2009 and 2010 a study subtitled A Possibility to Keep Stallions in Group was conducted to investigate “the possibility of housing breeding stallions … in groups on a large pasture.”

The stallions in the experiment were Freiberger horses owned by the Swiss National Stud and aged between 8 and 19. They were driving horses, but also used for breeding, and had lived at the stud for 5 to 16 years.

A group of 5 stallions was observed in 2009. Of these, 4 were in the group of 8 for the 2010 study.

The Researchers: concluded that, under certain conditions, “breeding stallions could be housed together on a large pasture … (which could) potentially increase horse welfare and reduce labour associated with horse management.”

Background Check

In the wild, stallions without a harem form ‘bachelor bands.’ These consist of up to 15 yearlings or young stallions, plus “older stallions that have lost their harem.”

The study notes that threatening behavior among the members of these bands is natural, as are avoidance and submission. But, “when they interact, stallions typically display the minimum amount of aggression required by the situation.” (My italics.)

These ‘ritualized displays’ become less intense and of shorter duration over time, and “seem to facilitate stallions being able to graze side-by-side.” The good news is that the displays alone help establish and maintain the group’s hierarchy “without involving physical aggression.”

A Stallion Needs Love, Too

Depriving horses of physical contact with each other is bad for their mental health. They are likely to “display more stress-related behaviours than horses stabled in pairs” and develop stereotypies such as weaving and cribbing. “Social interactions should therefore be considered as crucial for (a stallion’s) welfare.”

The earlier a stallion is socialized the better, since “horses that have been living in a group have more refined social skills and are less aggressive towards other horses and even towards humans during training.”

Trainer Jim Brinkman, manager of the Pitzer Ranch in Ericson, Nebraska, says in Owning a manageable stallion “we’ll let (the stallions) run together until they are 3 or 4 and bring the stallions in to determine if they should be cut. It’s good for them to run with a group so they learn how to get along with each other.”

Owners who haven’t done this are understandably loath to turn out their stallions in groups because of the high risk of injury, particularly during the initial introductory phase. But the study suggests that under specific conditions these stallions can also be kept in groups.

The potential for physical aggression significantly decreases and is “kept at a minimum after only three or four days following integration.”

Precautionary Measures

Before being put together, the Swiss stallions spent two weeks stabled next to each other, as “prior exposure can reduce aggression.” These horses were able to see, hear, smell and partially touch their equine comrades through the stable partitions. Except for one stud, they had been hitched next to each other in driving pairs.

In 2009, the 4 stallions were individually turned out for two hours a day. The 2010 group of 8 was exercised on the horse exerciser, half of them at a time.

After two weeks their shoes were removed, to reduce the risk of injury when turned out together.

Close Encounters of the Studly Kind

Each stallion was led on a halter once round the 10 acre field. Then all of them were released together, while 10 handlers stood by with whips should serious fighting break out and intervention become necessary.

The pasture was out of sight of mares and other horses: the stallions remained outdoors for six months.

There were no enclosed spaces, and they had access to six wooden field shelters with wide entrances and straw on the ground. Food distribution was conducted in such a way as to allow each animal to eat without fear of threats or kicks from the others.

Friends or Foes?

It was observed that “when two males encounter each other, they perform a ritual that allows them to assess each other’s fighting abilities … without having to fight.” The stallions indulged in more show than actual aggression.

Those stallions which had previously been turned out with others “had less agonistic, ritual and affiliative interactions than the other stallions.”

Agonistic relates to aggressive or defensive behavior, such as fighting, fleeing or submission.

Table 1. lists 14 different types of agonistic behavior observed among the stallions, including chasing, pushing, kneeling and fleeing or following.

Affiliative interactions were exhibited by such behaviors as nipping at each other in play without pinning their ears back and mutual grooming. They increased early in the stallions’ time together.

Affiliative behavior releases social tension between horses in a group. After 9 days it lessened among the stallions in the study, possibly because they had now formed their social bonds and no longer needed to indulge in it so frequently to maintain them.

Pulling Rank

Interestingly, the lower ranking stallions tended to “engage in more rituals than high-ranking ones.” They appeared to have a “tendency for compromising rather than fighting.”

The higher ranking stallions initiate affiliative behavior – not the lower-ranking ones, as this may lead to aggression from the high ranking stud.

Jim Brinkman’s approach is: “If particular stallions can’t seem to get along, they will stay together longer and work it out or be put with the geldings.” His solution does not include isolating the horse.

Equine behaviorist Sue McDonnell, Ph.D., from the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine explains in Owning a manageable stallion how important it is for stallions to have “plenty of space.” She stresses that “the least risk for injury comes with huge open spaces.” If there is a fight, usually the weaker horse will back down, and there needs to be “enough room for a horse to get away.”

Your stallion doesn’t have to live in solitary confinement. Under the proper conditions, he can be successfully integrated into a herd where he will be much happier. His stress levels will lower and he’ll know how to behave around other horses. In addition, he’ll be easier for you to handle and less work to take care of.

Resources & Further Reading

Pattern of Social Interactions after Group Integration: A Possibility to Keep Stallions in Group

Table 1 of the study, showing agonistic and affiliative behaviors

Researchers:

Sabrina Briefer Freymond, Elodie F. Briefer, Rudolf Von Niederhäusern and Iris Bachmann

Swiss National Stud: (Website available only in German and French)

Das Schweizerische Nationalgestüt SNG

Sue McDonnell, Ms, PhD

Stallions with Geldings?

Huddling in Horses

Horse Blanket for Winter

Does Your Horse Need a Horse Blanket This Winter?

Some owners blanket their equines at the first drop in temperature, while others believe they don’t need any extra help to stay warm because they have winter coats. There are good arguments for and against using a horse blanket. So how will you know whether or not your horse needs additional protection this winter?

The Pro-Blanket Arguments

Under certain circumstances blanketing is advisable.

The Clipped Horse

Clipping your horse in winter makes him easier to keep clean and he dries off faster after work.

However, having lost most – or all – of his winter coat, he’ll need a blanket. The amount of warmth it should offer will be determined by how much hair has been removed.

The Older Horse

A horse that is getting on in years has a harder time keeping warm during cold weather than his younger companions. His metabolism is slower, so his body has to work more to generate enough heat.

Increasing his feed will help, together with ad lib forage. But when the temperatures start to drop it’s time to consider putting a blanket on him.

When the Weather Gets Cold

When the thermometer dips below freezing, your horse may need extra protection.

Katherine Blocksdorf writes, “Horses can be left un-blanketed in very still, cold weather-4F (-20C), and they may be fine.” But very windy conditions blow away the body heat trapped in the horse’s hair.

He should have shelter at all times with access to forage to help him stay warm. Water (unfrozen!) is another must: dehydration is big danger in cold weather.

You will be able to tell from his behavior if he’s uncomfortable.

Freezing Rain

When freezing or below freezing temperatures combine with rain or sleet, (and the wind) your horse will start to feel miserable without extra help. The constant pounding on his coat makes it unable to stand up and trap the hot air from his body to keep him warm, a process known as pilorection.

It’s now time to bring him indoors and dry him off by thatching. “Use dry, shaken-out hay under a rug, and always towel dry the ears and legs,” says Polly Williamson, eventer.

Once he is warm and dry, you can turn the back out with a heavy duty turnout blanket until the bad weather passes.

The Anti-Blanket Arguments

Negative Effects of Regular Blanket Use

In the same way that constant driving rain and sleet flatten a horse’s coat, so does a blanket. If he wears one constantly, his coat hairs lose their ability to spring up and trap air.

The horse then has to wear a blanket all the time in order to stay warm, which isn’t good for him. If an unclipped horse wears one only in extreme weather conditions, his coat will protect him adequately the rest of the time.

How to Avoid the Negative Effects of Regular Blanket use

An Australian company, Macs Equine has developed a blanket to circumvent this issue. It’s called a ‘cool heat horse rug.’ Strips on the underside raise the blanket off the horse’s back and allow the hairs to stand up normally.

The company ships worldwide, and blankets arrive within 8 – 12 business days. This makes the cool heat horse rug worth considering if you want to blanket regularly without inhibiting pilorection.

The Unclipped Horse

If a horse with a full coat can get out of the wind and driving rain or snow, he is unlikely to need a blanket. Possible exceptions to this are if he is very old or sick.

Even if he is in work, as long as you dry him off properly before turning him back out, he should be fine without a blanket. He’ll soon let you know if he disagrees!

Access to forage 24/7 is important to keep that inner oven working, and being able to move around helps generate heat, too.

But remember, when the temperature dips below freezing he may need a blanket.

Ill-Fitting Blankets & Other Crimes

• A horse in a badly fitting blanket is in worse shape than when not wearing one at all. It will cause soreness where it chafes, and loose fitting straps create a dangerous trap for legs to get caught in. It is extremely important to make sure the blanket fits that particular horse. This excellent video illustrates how to fit a blanket properly.
• Another common problem is horses being expected to live for months on end during the winter without ever having their blankets removed. Imagine wearing very snug (and possibly too tight) pajamas for the whole of winter, regardless of the temperature in the house, and never being able to take them off to have a bath or shower! Wouldn’t that be really uncomfortable?
• Blankets should be removed regularly to give the horse’s coat a chance to breathe. Brush him often to maintain his sense of well-being and not being neglected. Grooming also provides an opportunity to check that his shoulders and the inside of his hind legs aren’t getting rubbed. Be ready to switch to a lighter blanket if the temperature calls for it. Keep aware of day to day variations in the outside conditions – there’s no ‘one blanket for all weathers.’
• Save the heavy duty one for really cold spells, otherwise your horse will sweat uncomfortably. According to Intelligent Horsecare, “Overheating doesn’t only cause unnecessary discomfort but reduces movement and can cause skin complaints.” Anhidrosis is another negative result from incorrect blanketing.
• Don’t get lazy and add turnout blankets on top of stable blankets when the horse goes out. (Yes, people actually do this!)

The decision to blanket is based on many factors, and no one answer fits all horses. Common sense is key here. As Ms. Blocksdorf says: “Let your horse’s behavior and physical condition be your guide.”

Each winter let him tell you whether he needs a blanket or would prefer to be left au naturel. Monitor him daily throughout the cold season and be ready to add extra protection if necessary.

Resources & Further Reading

Should You Blanket Your Horse?

The Right Blanket for Any Temperature

How to Fit a Horse Blanket

Blankets for Horses: FAQs

How to Put on a Winter Blanket (video)

Thatching

Top Tips to Survive the Winter

To Blanket Your Horse or Not to Blanket … That Is The Question

At what temperature should I blanket my horse?

Why Not All Equines Need a Winter Horse Blanket

New Improved Revolutionary Cool Heat Horse Rugs

Cool Heat Rugs