Developing Dressage Horse Strength

Dressage Horse Strength

Dressage is beautiful to watch when the horse appears to move effortlessly with imperceptible aids from his rider.

Cultivating this harmonious partnership takes years of patient training, during which time the horse’s muscles become much stronger. This makes it easier for him to carry his rider and perform smoothly.

Straight Talk

In accordance with the Training Scale, the horse is first encouraged to relax under saddle and find his natural rhythm. This allows him to move with regularity in his steps and prepares him for the work which will strengthen certain muscles.

Hilary Clayton writes in Sustainable Dressage that in the early phases of his dressage education the emphasis is on “teaching the horse to move forward in rhythm and increasing the driving power of the hind limbs.”

But if the animal isn’t moving straight, this propulsive power is not being used efficiently.

Think of pushing a shopping cart with a wheel that turns outwards. A lot of energy is wasted combatting that sideways motion to move the cart forwards. On the other hand, pushing a cart with properly aligned wheels requires little effort.

It’s the same with horses. They are naturally crooked and need training to move straight with economy of effort.

In his book The Elements of Dressage: A Guide for Training the Young Horse Kurd Albrecht von Ziegnerexplains that straightness involves getting your horse to release the muscles on his ‘soft’ side.

As an example, a horse’s ‘soft’ side is on his right, if he bends more easily that way than to the left. The right muscles are more contracted than those on his left, and these must become relaxed to allow the horse to straighten out.

Herr von Ziegner suggests the following exercises to straighten the horse:

Leg-yield
Shoulder fore
Riding in counter position (i.e. flexing him to the outside)

When the horse starts to move straight, the rider can feel a sudden surge of extra energy being released from the animal’s hindquarters. The previously wasted energy is now being used to propel him forwards.

Striking the Right Balance

Through traveling straight and using both hind legs equally for propulsion, the horse becomes balanced. Cynthia Hodges, M.A. explains: “As a result, the horse’s soundness is preserved and the gaits are more beautiful.”

The haunches are now being asked to bend more and need strengthening. These exercises help develop the muscles in the horse’s hind end:

Half-halts, which shift the horse’s weight back onto the hind legs and “increase the engagement of the hindquarters” says von Ziegner.
Transitions, i.e. the changes up and down between the gaits. Bonnie Walker in Five Ways to Engage Your Horse’s Hind Leg advocates them as “a gentle, low impact way to encourage your horse to rebalance himself and activate the hind.”

Von Ziegner suggests the following exercises to activate the hind feet and supple the horse:

Decreasing and increasing circles
Shoulder-in
Counter canter

As the horse’s center of balance shifts onto his hindquarters, weight is distributed evenly onto all four feet. This elevates his forehand and prepares the horse for collection.

Dressage horse strength is increased by correctly applying the fundamentals of rhythmic forward riding, straightness and balance, while developing trust and harmony within the partnership.

Resources and Further Reading

What are the Aids to Train My Dressage Horse to Leg Yield?

Straighten Your Horse with the Dressage Movements Shoulder-in, Shoulder-fore, and First Position

Achieving Balance

How to Do a Half-Halt

Transitions, the Secret to Balanced Riding

Five Ways to Engage Your Horse’s Hind Leg

Lateral Work: Progressing to Shoulder-In

Introducing the Counter-Canter

The Training Pyramid – Collection

Increased Weight on the Forelegs

The Horse’s Head and Neck in Relation to Balance

Dressage Today – Cross Training

Buying an Off Track Thoroughbred

The Amazingly Versatile Thoroughbred

OTTB stands for “Off Track Thoroughbred,” and thousands of these retired racehorses are looking for new owners to retrain them and give them a loving home, where they can excel at their next job.

The Retired Racehorse Training Project conducted a study on the second careers of 4,200 OTTBs in 47 US states and Canada. Here is the breakdown of the disciplines they switched to:
37% Eventing

27% Hunter/Jumpers

13% Dressage

9% Trails & Recreational (English)

4% Trails & Recreational (Western)

3% Foxhunting

7% Other

Interestingly, the typical OTTB owner is a female (95%), amateur (80%) competitive rider (78%). As the study shows, Thoroughbred horses are smart, athletic and extremely adaptable. Some are spirited, but this is certainly not true of all of them. In Could a Thoroughbred Be Your Next Horse? Amy says that inconsiderate or unknowledgeable owners are responsible for giving the breed a bad name. Her experience of fostering many OTTBs has revealed that Thoroughbreds have an excellent work ethic and are very intelligent. “They just want to know what their job is and then have you allow them to do it.”

The breed varies in height between 15 and 17 hands. Bay is the predominant color, the others being gray, chestnut, brown and black. The average lifespan is 25 – 28 years and they can live up to age 30. So where do they go after retiring from racing as youngsters?

Why Off Track Thoroughbreds Need a Plan B

Kimberly Clark, who rescues and retrains OTTBs at Leighton Farm, writes: “On average, 30,000 Thoroughbreds are bred in the U.S. each year for the purpose of racing….and the majority of them will be retired from racing by the age of 5.”

Thousands of them then become unwanted. Many end up in killer pens, and Thoroughbred rescue organizations work hard to give as many of these animals as possible the chance of a new life in a good home.

The OTTB Edge

Clark’s excellent manual “New Track, New Life” explains that the OTTB has been well-handled from the age of two and exposed to cars, trucks and tractors. He’s been around many different people, and worked with and around other horses.

These professionally started animals have also traveled extensively, ‘been there, done that,’ and learned to take crowds and noise in their stride. As a result, they are calm about many of the things, such as busy traffic, which bother ‘regular’ horses.

Where to Look for Your OTTB

One place to start your search is The Communication Alliance to Network Thoroughbred Ex-Racehorses (CANTER), a national organization whose mission is to provide retiring thoroughbred racehorses with opportunities for new careers. Click on the state nearest you to find available OTTBs in your area. The website has an FAQ page which addresses many common concerns, including the following:

What do they cost?

This page states that the price of the horses is very negotiable. The urgency of the owner to dispose of the horse is a factor. I persuaded one owner on the track to part with his mare for nothing, because it was cheaper for him than continuing to pay the horse’s board for the next few weeks. This argument won’t always work, but it’s worth asking.

I trailered the mare straight to Leighton Farm. Several months later her thrilled new owner contacted me to say how well she and the retrained mare have bonded.

Can I ride the horse at the track?

The answer is ‘no’ except under certain circumstances. (I was done the huge favor of being hoisted into a tiny racing saddle and led under the shed row and back!)

Does CANTER vouch for the soundness and health of the horses for sale through the program?

If the horse is being bought directly from the trainer, then no. If it is a CANTER owned horse, then yes.

Purchasing Tips:

Whether or not you find your new horse through CANTER, this is valuable information to help you make the best of your trip, if you go to the race track to look at prospective animals.

Other organizations which retrain and offer OTTBs for sale:

Thoroughbred Placement Resources, Inc.

Thoroughbred Aftercare Alliance

Thoroughbred Retirement Foundation

This is not a complete list.

Judging the Temperament & Soundness of Your OTTB

Temperament

If the horse is at a retraining facility, its temperament will have been assessed by the organization offering him for sale, and they will know what type of rider and riding he is suitable for.

Listings of horses still at the track give as good an indication as possible of the horse’s temperament, based on what is seen on the day the animal is visited. Often they can only repeat what the trainer has said about the horse and it will come down to your own judgment.

Physical Health

Because Thoroughbreds are raced as physically immature two and three year olds, they are prone to injury. The organizations are honest about known physical issues in their horse listings.

In any case, be sure to have your prospect vetted.

Coming Home

If your horse has just come off the track, he’ll need much patience and understanding.

After being on a lot of high-energy feed and pent up in a stall for 23 hours a day, he’ll need to be taught gradually about turn out. Reduce his feed and start him out in a small pen where he can stretch his legs but not reach a full gallop. Once he settles down you can move him into a larger field and gradually integrate him into his new herd.

Under saddle, he’s only learned to go, go, go. Says Jessalyn Zimmers, OTTB trainer: “Let them know it’s OK to take a deep breath; drop their heads and just walk. That sensible horse will start to emerge. This takes time.”

Her excellent article The Off Track Thoroughbreds Experience and Clark’s downloadable ebook “New Track, New Life” A Guide to Understanding and Retraining Your Off Track Thoroughbred give valuable insight into the lifestyle of a racehorse. They detail how to settle him into his new home and re-school him for a successful second career.

For the intermediate or experienced rider, buying an OTTB is enormously rewarding. With patient training and TLC you can have a lot of fun in his company, and he will work diligently to become your ideal equine partner.

Equine Senior Citizens

A Health Plan for Equine Senior Citizens

A horse is considered ‘senior’ when he turns 20, which is the equivalent of a 57 year old person. You can click here to calculate your own horse’s age in human years. According to the Kentucky Equine Research Staff, “17% of the horses in the U.S. are estimated to be over 20 years of age.” That’s a high number, but with exercise and proper nutrition our older equines can stay healthy well into their golden years.

Move It or Lose It

Regular, and age appropriate physical activity builds and maintains muscle. Exercise can help prevent metabolic issues, says Kenneth McKeever, Ph.D., FACSM, professor of equine exercise physiology and associate director for research at the Equine Science Center at Rutgers. “Also, when we first started putting old horses on the treadmill and then the Eurociser machine, they were feeling better and loosening up after three sessions.”

Marijke de Jong suggests being flexible in one’s approach to working an older horse as he will have good and bad days. Don’t work senior equines on humid, hot days as they become easily dehydrated and have a hard time cooling down. Consistent exercise improves their mental wellbeing, by giving them a job and making them feel useful.

Keeping Up Appearances

Extra care is needed to keep senior horses in good condition.

Worming

Older horses’ digestive systems don’t absorb nutrients easily, and worms damage the intestines even further while stealing those nutrients for themselves. A fecal count will help your veterinarian develop an effective deworming program.

Nutrition

Fiber: Dr. Lydia Gray suggests “providing fiber that is easier to digest (higher quality hay, soaked hay cubes, beet pulp, complete feed) as well as pre- and probiotics, yeast and digestive enzymes.”

Starch: A low-starch diet is better for older equines, as their reduced ability to digest starch can lead to colic, laminitis and Cushings disease.

Protein: To maintain condition, older horses often need extra calories from a high protein feed.

Fat: Adding fat to the diet is another way to increase their calorie intake. Kentucky Equine Research suggests feeding it “in the form of vegetable oil, rice bran, or a fat supplement.”

Meals per Day: If fed too much per meal, many horses go off their food. Consider giving your older horse several small feeds a day.

Dental Care: Older horses’ teeth need floating twice a year and Scot T. Gillies warns: “Horses with terribly compromised dentition could be more likely to suffer from esophageal blockage (“choke”) or impaction-type colic.” Dental problems also lead to an inability to chew, resulting in poor nutrition and loss of body condition.

Obesity: Some horses put on weight in old age rather than lose it. As Neil Clarkson quips: “We are creating paddock potatoes.” Overfeeding invites a host of problems including metabolic issues such as insulin-related disorders, Cushing’s disease, and thyroid or pituitary problems.

Hoof Care: Advanced age doesn’t preclude the need for regular visits from the farrier to keep your senior equine sound, as long as his hooves aren’t lifted too high.

Turnout

The healthiest situation for older horses is 24/7 turn-out on good quality pasture, with equine companions who don’t bully them, and adequate shelter. It doesn’t take much effort to give our senior equine citizens the extra help they need to grow old healthily and gracefully.

Resources & Further Reading

Horse Age in Human Years Conversion Calculator

The Senior Horse

Add Years to Your Horse’s Life

Euroxciser

Deworming Schedule for Horses

Laminitis

Weight Loss in Older Horses: Management Solutions

Senior Horse Care

Colic in Horses

FAQs About PPID (Cushing’s Disease)

Senior Horse Servings

Taking Care of the Senior Horse

Feed Needs of Older Horses

Cushing’s Disease & Metabolic Health

Feeding the Insulin Resistant Horse

Caring for Old Horses

Horse Teeth

20 Things Your Horse’s Teeth Are Telling You

What Does Floating Teeth Mean & Why Is It Necessary?

Senior Hoof Care Considerations

Keep Your Older Horse Comfortable During a Trim

Horse Exerciser Footing

Adding the Horse Exerciser Footing to the track is the final important step in completing your machine. In our prior Horse Exerciser Track article, we review construction considerations to develop a solid foundation for the sub base and the base of the pad to achieve proper track drainage and track support for the horses. The footing is the final construction step, and will provide your equine athletes with proper traction and impact absorption as they exerciser in the machine. There are many excellent footing options available and each offer cost and performance attributes to consider.

Performance Considerations

Impact Absorption

The purpose of the footing is to provide the appropriate impact absorption and support as a horse works around the track. Managing the footing and proper shoeing significantly reduces impact loads to the horse’s joints and ligaments. Barrey, Landjerit and Wolter studied shock and vibration at the hoof with different track surfaces, including asphalt, gavel, gravel+sand, sand, sawdust and sand with various mixes. Good performance is achieved with sand and sand with mixes of softs and is one of the most common fill materials used in Eurocisers. It also tends to be cost effective and locally available. There are a number of excellent synthetics that create good impact absorption and support – they do require greater investment.

Traction

The footing material must provide sufficient traction to give the horse hoof purchase as they exercise. The footing must provide this traction while absorbing the impact loads during the exercise. If the footing is too hard, the impact loads are not absorbed and can result in concussive injuries. If the footing gives too much (low shear force), the horse must work harder to generate movement and result in fatigue on ligaments and tendons, causing potential injuries. Over compensating for one attribute can often sacrifice the second attribute. It’s important to achieve a balance of traction and impact absorption.

Durability

The footing material will see constant use and can break down over time. It’s important to consider the maintenance cycles and useful life of your footing to get the best performance and lowest life cycle cost before replacement. As the footing breaks down, undesired side effects can form. Soft sands and sands with high silt content that drain proper when exposed to rain, can loose their porous properties as they break down, causing lack of good drainage. Worn footing can also loose some impact absorption properties. Not all sand, synthetics and softs are equal. Investigate the best choices for your track to get the best performance for your horses.

Footing Material

Synthetics

There are a number of synthetic options available on the market that provide great traction and absorption qualities. The investment cost for synthetic footing is higher than alternatives such as sand. And if the material is not available local there are additional shipping costs to consider. We recommend working directly with the specific footing manufacturer to understand the appropriate solution for your track, and get references to understand the proper set up and maintenance of the footing system you plan to invest in. We reference a number of suppliers at the end of this article.

Sand

Sand is a great footing material choice, and if specified properly, is one of the best cost and performance options available. A 3-4 inch sand depth is required for the Eurociser and sets on top of the compacted base.

The quality and type of sand varies greatly region by region – not all sand is equal. Soft sand breaks down quicker. High silt content generates more dust. Greater clay content tends to have greater silt content. Round sand does not provide the same traction properties compared to angular sand. Sand can even be categorized differently based on the region you buy it. Therefor it is important to be specific about the characteristics you want in the sand. Below are the more important characteristics to be specific about when purchasing your footing.

For starters, specify sand that meets ASTM C-33. Most quarries carry this sand grade as it’s a standard construction grade, and a common sand grade used for horse arenas. The sand size ranges .05 mm to 2 mm in size, (a fine, medium and course sand mix). The specification provides requirements for the sand mix make up and limits the amount of clay and silt within the sand.

It’s possible specify washed sand to limit the silt content and clay content further. Poor quality clay has high silt content, and silt offers no benefits. In fact, silt is the larger contributor to dust production, and washing the sand allows you to remove the majority of silt. It is worthwhile to add back a quality clay material with low silt content. The clay provides impact absorption properties and helps absorb water to keep the sand moist. The mix should be 80-90% sand, 10-20% clay.

Sand has different hardness levels based on the mineral composition. Quartz/Silica sand is more durable and the preferred choice over Mica or Feldspar type sands. Sub angular and angular sand is also recommended over round sands. The angular sand interlocks under pressure, creating better traction for the horses.

How do you confirm the sand meets the requirements / characteristics you plan to buy from the supplier? Getting references from local arenas can be helpful to see how the sand is performing. Footings Unlimited suggests a simple test by taking 2 inches of sand in a glass jar, add water several inches above the sand, mix and see how much sand falls out of solution after 1 minute. Measuring the new level of sand gives a good percentage estimate of how much of the footing is sand. The remaining soluble dirt, clay and silt stays suspended until it has time to settle. You want 80-90% of the material to be sand for your footing.

Additives

Rubber

Rubber can be added to the sand mix to further increase the impact absorption properties of the footing. Rubber from recycled tires is most readily available and offered by numerous suppliers. Make sure the rubber is clean of debris and has no foreign material (no metal). Its possible to buy rubber material produced just for horse arenas as well. It’s important to not overload the footing with rubber, or too much give is developed within the footing. The rule of thumb is to use 1-2 pound per square foot of surface area. Depending on the size of the machine, plan 1500 pounds to 3000 pounds of material.

Wood Chips and Fiber

Wood chips and fiber are also an option. Care must be taken to keep the track moist as the impact absorption is developed from the wood when it is damp. Dry wood is stiffer and breaks down quickly when the horses work on the track. Hard woods work best for durability. However, wood chips do break down quicker and require periodic replenishment maintenance cycles.

Rubber Mats

Adding a rubber mat lattice layer below the footing / above the base is a great way to build a cushion layer to the track. About 3 inches of sand footing is added on top of the mat, and sand fills the gaps of the mat. It’s important to have a secure way to keep the mats down and have drainage paths beneath the rubber mat to flush moisture through the sand and mats.

Maintenance

Your track does require maintenance. It’s important to drag and rake out the footing to re-level the material and mix materials, especially in high traffic areas. It also prevents the horses from wearing down the footing to the point where the horses are working on the base of the track. If the horses reach the base, the absorption benefit is removed, and it’s possible to break down and wear the base resulting in further track maintenance.

Maintaining the moisture level in the footing is important as it keeps the material resilient to achieve the impact absorptions properties desired. The moisture content should be maintained at 5-10% by volume (water to footing content). The moisture also keeps the dust level down as the horses work on the track. If your uncertain how to judge the moisture content, pick up a digital moisture meter like a General Tools MMD4E meter. They are on line or at your local hardware store in the irrigation supplies section for about $50. Adding a ground based sprinkler system can make managing the moisture level easier. By establishing your water cycle and understanding the moisture content results, you can simplify the water maintenance cycle of the track.

Final Comments

Reference Information

Penn State College of Agriculture – Arena Footing Material and Selection

Arena Footings: Materials, Installation and Maintenance

Footings Unlimited for Synthetic Footing Options

Premier Equestrian

Efficient Arena for Additives

Tackling Tack Care

Taking care of horse riding equipment isn’t fun, but ignoring this task can result in the early and costly replacement of items, not to mention riding accidents. Regular tack care and inspections are as important as frequent cleaning.

Tack Care: Checking Your Tack

The Saddle

Saddle Tree

The tree is the frame upon which the whole saddle is built and is crucial to your horse’s comfort. Follow the easy steps in Testing Your Saddle Tree to see if yours is broken or twisted. A line of wrinkles across the seat of the saddle also indicates a broken tree. If you suspect anything is wrong, don’t use it on your horse until a reputable saddle fitter has checked it.

Flocking

Check that the flocking (filling in your saddle’s underside) has not become hard or uneven. Have your saddler check this every six to twelve months.

Billets

These are the leather straps to which the girth is attached. Examine them for cracking or tearing, and loose or worn stitching where they attach to the saddle. Billets last much longer if your girth has buckles with rollers, which don’t ‘bite’ into the leather.

Girth

This vital piece of equipment needs frequent checking for leather cracks, rusting buckles and deterioration in the stitching and elastic.

Stirrup Leathers

Inspect your stirrup leathers for wear and tear. Switch the left and right leathers at regular intervals: the left leather gets stretched over time from the rider putting extra weight on it when mounting. Examine the stitching for any broken or deteriorating threads.

The Bridle

Check for cracking leather and weakening stitches and ensure the buckles are not rusted through. Monitor your bit for rough edges or twisting of the metal, indicating the need to buy a new one.

Other Leather

Other leather equipment such as martingales, breastplates, or cruppers also need frequent inspection.

Leather Cleaning

After Every Ride

Removing sweat from your saddle and bridle after every use will protect the leather from its two big enemies, damp and dust. Wipe saliva off the bridle, and if you wash the bit be sure to dry the surrounding leather.

On Dedicated Cleaning Day

Schedule a time to thoroughly clean your tack when you can perform the job properly.

Step One: Dismantle

Take your bridle completely apart. Detach your stirrup leathers from the saddle and take off the irons.

Step Two: Clean

Use a soft cloth to remove all dirt. Dampen a small tack sponge (which you can find in tack stores) and rub a quality saddle soap such as Effax or Passier Saddle Soap into the leather, including those hard-to-reach places. Liquid saddle soaps such as Effax Mildew-Free or Leather New are easier to use, but more expensive.

Step Three: Condition

Apply a conditioner after cleaning to soften your leather and lengthen its useful life. Passier Leder Balsam is an excellent chemical free leather conditioner. For those with less time, Leather CPR and SmartWorks Cleather Cleaner and Conditioner are great products for both cleaning and conditioning.

Step Four: Restore

For tack in poor condition, Hydrophane Leather Dressing softens and reconditions leather, as well as waterproofing. It is highly recommended by saddlers as a reviver of old leather. Horse equipment is not cheap, and regular cleaning will extend its life. But it’s also important to check if repairs or replacements are necessary before the tack becomes uncomfortable for the horse and/or dangerous for the rider.

Resources & More Information

Checking Tack

http://www.equisearch.com/tack_apparel/english-tack_apparel/eqsaddle2881/

http://www.equisearch.com/tack_apparel/english-tack_apparel/tacksafety081097/

Leather Cleaning

https://www.chronofhorse.com/article/taking-care-your-tack-doesnt-have-be-tough

http://www.horses-and-horse-information.com/articles/0397tack.shtml

http://www.horsechannel.com/horse-keeping/tack-cleaning-tips.aspx

http://www.horsechannel.com/horse-keeping/tack-cleaning-active-ingredients.aspx

Horse Spring Grass: Problems & Solutions

Horse – Spring Grass

It’s wonderful to see green shoots sprouting again after the gloomy winter months. Instead of having to haul heavy hay bales around the barn, we can finally let our equine buddies graze all day. But the transition from hay to spring grass can bring complications with it. Not all horses cope well with the sudden switch, and appropriate management may be necessary if negative symptoms appear.

The Problems

Intestinal

Spring grass contains sugars, protein and carbohydrates in much higher levels than are present in most hay types. Overloading the horse’s digestive system with these nutrients upsets the sensitive balance of micro-organisms in the intestinal tract.

Cool season grass (such as spring grass) contains fructan, a complex and easily fermented sugar. As Kentucky Performance Products explain:

“Instead of being digested in the foregut, fructan passes into the horse’s hindgut, where it ferments and causes the production of lactic acid. Too much lactic acid reduces the pH of the hindgut, and these changes “negatively affect the delicate microflora that live in the hindgut and aid in digestion.”

This can lead to bloating, diarrhea, colic and laminitis (see below).

Obesity

Many horses continue to eat well during the winter while getting little or no exercise. Spring grass puts these already plump animals at high risk of becoming obese. The incidence of obesity in horses is upwards of 45%. Being chronically overweight has many adverse effects on horses, including:

heart disease
lung problems,
intolerance to exercise
inefficient thermoregulation (over-heating)
obstructions in the intestinal tract
colic
insulin resistance (see below)
EMS (equine metabolic syndrome)
laminitis

Incorporating an exercise routine with a horse exerciser can help during the winter months.

Insulin resistance

Insulin is used by the body to metabolize sugar and starches (carbohydrates). When a horse is insulin resistant, its cells no longer respond to the insulin. This results in wasting of the muscles. Other signs of insulin resistance include:

fatty deposits, particularly on the crest, rump and over the eyes
polyuria (excessive urinating)
polydipsia (excessive drinking)
insatiable appetite
laminitis

If caught in time, insulin resistance is reversible through weight loss and exercise, according to Zoe Davies MSc.Eq.S.,R.Nutr. So seek prompt veterinary attention if your horse shows signs of IR.

Laminitis

Laminitis can be an extremely painful condition for horses. Symptoms include:

The horse is uncomfortable standing in the same position for any length of time and constantly shifts his weight from one leg to the other.
The horse appears to be trying to take the weight off his front legs
Choppy and/or stiff gaits.
Shortened strides on harder surfaces which were not problematic for the animal in the past
Soreness in the back, even though the saddle fits properly

Consult your vet immediately if you suspect your horse is suffering from laminitis.

A Hot Horse

Many riders notice that after grazing on spring grass their horses become spooky, nervous and excitable. In extreme cases they are impossible to ride. In addition to the sudden increase of sugar in their diet, the cause of this behavior is the insufficient level of magnesium in spring grass. Performance Equine, in Magnesium: The Mineral Superhero describes it as being “by far the most important mineral, activating over 300 different biochemical reactions all necessary for the body to function properly.” It’s not surprising that the lack of such an important element can lead to bad equine behavior.

The Solutions

Pre- and Probiotics

These can help the horse’s digestive tract function correctly by maintaining the microbial balance in the hind gut.

Prebiotics, as Triple Crown Feed explains, “are not microbes, but ingredients that help the microbial populations in the hindgut remain stable and healthy. A prebiotic …… enhances the quality of the microbe population that’s there.”

Probiotics are micro-organisms which, when fed live to the horse, introduce viable ‘good’ bacteria and encourage a healthy digestive environment. Check that the cultures in any probiotics you choose were not killed while being processed. Horses appear to benefit more from a continual supplementation of probiotics to their diet than occasional use. Companies such as Succeed or SmartPakEquine sell high quality equine digestive supplements.

Restrict Grazing and Feed Hay

It’s a good idea to alternate grazing with feeding hay while the young grass is coming through. There are certain times of day when it is safer to let your horse graze,such as the morning when the daytime weather is sunny with warm nights, and on rainy, wet days. Give hay each time your horse comes off his pasture. The slow fermenting fiber will help counteract the effects of the fast fermenting sugars in the spring grass.

Reduction of Feed

Eleanor Kellon, VMD says that “for ideal health, your horse should be maintained at a body condition score of 5.” She is referring to the Henneke body condition scoring system which describes the ideal horse this way:

Neck blends smoothly into body
Withers are rounded over spinous processes
Shoulder blends smoothly into body
Ribs cannot be visually distinguished, but can be easily felt
Back is level
Fat around tailhead beginning to feel soft

If you reduce your horse’s feed, ensure he still receives enough nutrients. Talk to your veterinarian about how best to safely bring down his weight if he’s getting fat.

Introduction of Low Starch Feed

For obese or insulin resistant horses low starch feeds are a good solution. They also prevent the sudden sugar rush some horses get from regular feeds. This makes them more excitable and nervous, especially if they’re already getting a sugar high from the grass, and leads to other health issues. Discuss with your vet about using nutrition to help avoid the onset of problems due to spring grass.

Addition of Magnesium Supplements to the Diet

Spring grass is higher in potassium and nitrogen with less magnesium than more mature growth. Among its many functions, magnesium is essential for the regulation of blood sugar levels and the thyroid. Insufficient magnesium is partly responsible for equine metabolic syndrome and obesity, both of which can lead to laminitis. And as we discussed above, a lack of magnesium can create severe behavioral issues. You can redress the balance by supplementing your horse’s diet with a magnesium product such as Quiessence from SmartPakEquine.com or MagRestore from Performance Equine. Spring grass presents tough health challenges for some horses, but there is much you can do to offset them.

Resources & Further Reading

General

http://www.safergrass.org/pdf/JEVS8-05.pdf

http://www.equisearch.com/farm_ranch/pasture/spring-grass-cautions/

http://www.succeed-equine.com/succeed-blog/2011/05/26/tips-for-spring-grass-management-to-avoid-colic-and-laminitis/

http://www.thepurefeedcompany.com/nutrition/coping-with-rich-spring-grass

http://summit-equine.com/understanding-fructans/

Obesity

https://www.bluecross.org.uk/80161-80160/obesity-in-horses.html

http://www.thehorse.com/articles/32005/understanding-and-managing-equine-obesity

http://www.thehorse.com/articles/33375/health-concerns-related-to-equine-obesity

Insulin Resistance

http://www.balancedequinenutrition.com/IRArticle.html

Laminitis

http://www.ahf-laminitis.org/p/faq.html

http://www.balancedequinenutrition.com/IRArticle.html#laminitis

http://gainfeeds.com/horse/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/laminitis.pdf

Pre- and Probiotics

http://www.thehorse.com/articles/30918/pre-and-probiotics-for-horses

http://csu-cvmbs.colostate.edu/Documents/equine-probiotics.pdf

Low Starch Feeds

http://www.ker.com/library/equinews/v14n2/v14n209.pdf

Magnesium

http://www.performanceequineusa.com/magnesium-themineralsuperhero.aspx

http://www.naturalhorseworld.com/Articles-Nutrition.htm#magnesium

http://equestrianlady.blogspot.com/2011/03/is-your-horse-high-on-spring-grass.html

4 Versatile Horse Breeds

4 Versatile Horse Breeds for English & Western Riding

If you enjoy both English and Western riding, you may think you need a separate horse for each discipline. But fortunately some breeds can be ridden in both English and Western and here are 4 versatile horse breeds for riders in all height and weight categories.

Clydesdale

Made famous by the Budweiser ads, these horses are not just pretty pullers of beer carts. They are very sensible under saddle, and can make good jumpers.

Their kind and gentle dispositions are ideal for the more nervous rider who wants to ride English or Western dressage at the lower levels, in Western pleasure classes or on the trails.

Clydesdales stand between 16 and 18.2 hands high and weigh between 1,800 lbs. and 2,200 lbs. suiting the upper height and weight rider categories.

Clydesdales crossed with Thoroughbreds produce great all-round horses with better jumping ability, which also accommodate riders of lesser height and weight.

If you need added agility and speed for barrel racing, consider a Clydesdale/Paint or Quarter Horse cross: they can all be ridden in both the English and Western style.

Percheron

This intelligent, gentle and willing draft breed was originally a war horse. He was then used for pulling stage coaches, before switching to agricultural forestry work.

Yet now the Percheron is a popular riding horse for English and Western pleasure. (Although he won’t make a fast barrel racer!)

The purebred Percheron’s height ranges from 15 to 19 hands, and he weighs between 1,100 lbs and 2,600 lbs., making it possible for riders within a wide range of stature and weight to find a suitable mount of this breed.

Also sought after for English and Western riding are Percherons crossed with Paints or Thoroughbreds. They are lighter boned and quicker on their feet, while retaining the sane brain for which the Percheron is renowned.

The American Paint Horse

Although generally thought of as Western horses because of their Quarter Horse blood, Paints are recognized as great English riding horses, too. Previously considered outside the norm at English shows, their color patterns have now become firm favorites.

Paint Horses range in height from 14.2 to 15.2, and weigh between 950 lbs and 1,200 lbs. They are at home in the dressage arena (English or Western), the jumping stadium, the cross-country course, rounding up cattle or barrel racing.

This fleet-footed animal is fun to own and comes in many different colors. The American Paint Horse Association describes him as ‘having athletic ability and being agreeable.’

Morgan

This little horse has it all. Compact, strong and powerful, the Morgan makes a good barrel-racer, Western pleasure and cutting horse, English jumper and eventer, English and Western dressage horse as well as endurance horse.

His height is anywhere from 14.1 hands to 15.2 hands, with some individuals standing a little taller. Usual colors are bay, black or chestnut.

The Disciplines & Uses page for this breed lists no fewer than sixteen different areas in which the Morgan excels!

Not only that, but he has a gentle disposition and steady temperament. He is an easy keeper, meaning that he is not hard to maintain at a good weight.

Because these horse breeds perform well in both the English and Western disciplines, you can have the whole package in a single horse. This makes riding much more interesting and a lot of fun!

Tips Trying Out New Horse

5 Essential Tips Trying Out New Horse

You’ve created an impressive short-list of horse candidates. One of them will become your new horse and it’s simply a matter of trying them all out to find him.

But before you arrange to ride every single horse, check out these 5 tips. They’ll avoid a lot of wasted time and help you find your new horse safely.

1. Ask a Lot of Questions

Prior to dialing the seller’s number, write down questions to ask.

The horse’s advertisement should contain a lot of detail about him, but some information will be missing. And it doesn’t hurt to ask about something that’s in the ad to see if you get the same answer over the phone. For example, what is the horse’s height and age? You’d be surprised at how written ads and verbal answers vary.

Here are more questions to ask, where relevant

How many years has he been with his present owner?
Has he had more than one owner?
What is the reason for selling him?
What level of expertise is the horse’s current rider? Have the seller tell you this before volunteering your own riding ability. Don’t provide the seller with cues to say the horse will be perfect for you even if it’s not true.
What is his temperament?
How often is he ridden each week?
When was he was last ridden? This is important to know!
Is the horse on any medication? E.g. for arthritis or allergies.
Is he being given any supplements? If so, what and why?
How much does the horse weigh?
Is he easy to catch?
Is the horse accustomed to pasture board or is he usually stabled part of the day?
How much turnout is he used to?
Does he have any allergies?
Can he be turned out on spring grass? Has he ever had laminitis?
Does he behave well in cross-ties?
Is he easy to clip?
Does he behave well for the farrier? Does he wear shoes, or go barefoot?
Does he load easily?
Has he been to competitions? In what discipline and what level?
Is he good on the trails by himself?
Does he mind being at the back, front or middle when ridden out in company?

If you’re satisfied with the seller’s attitude over the phone and his responses, it’s time to make an appointment to see the horse.

Equine Legal Solutions has a very useful Horse Buying Checklist to print out and take with you.

2. Enlist the Help of an Experienced Horse Person

Taking a knowledgeable horse person with you is invaluable: her cool head will prevail in the event of your falling in love with the wrong horse.

Her presence will also encourage the seller to be more upfront about the animal for sale, in a subtle case of two against one.

The best person to take along with you is your instructor. Check that she’s available when you need her, and how much she charges.

Alternatively, take a trusted horse friend with you for the preliminary visit, and ask your trainer to come for the second look. Or take a video of the horse to show her. Whomever you take, ensure they have a good eye for the discipline you need the horse for.

3. Observe the Horse on the Ground

When you arrive, sellers often have the horse already tacked up. The reason for this might simply be to save time – but it could be more ominous.

Say that you want to watch the horse being caught and led in from the field. Good ground manners are vital to your safety around the horse.

Observe him in the cross-ties and how he behaves when being groomed. You may even want to brush him a little yourself to get acquainted.

If you and your horse friend/trainer feel comfortable about his behavior so far, watch him being tacked up and led to the riding arena.

4. Don’t Get on First

Never be the first to get on the horse. No matter how quiet he allegedly is, you must insist the owner ride him before you do. (If he refuses, walk away.)

With your friend/trainer, watch the horse’s gaits in both directions. Is he sound? Is he quiet and obedient? Does he exhibit the temperament you’re looking for? Does he have the movement you need for your riding discipline?

If you’re looking for a jumper, how is his approach and take-off? Is he calm before and after the jump?

Lastly, does the horse enjoy his work? Are his ears pricked forwards, or pinned back all the time? Does he swish his tail?

Only get on the horse if you feel comfortable. You’re not there to impress anyone with your riding ability, so don’t feel under pressure to get on him if your gut tells you he’s wrong for you. There’s no shame in saying: ‘No thanks, he’s not what I’m looking for.’

5. Ride the Horse in a New Environment

If after your ride you and your ground person feel good about this horse, it’s time for the next tryout phase.

He may have behaved well for you at his barn, but how is he in strange surroundings? The only way to find out is to ride him somewhere new.

Watch him load into the trailer. If he’s naughty, you’re better crossing him off your list, unless you’re willing to put a lot of work into re-training him. At least you’ll know what you’re dealing with!

Follow his trailer to watch how calmly he travels.

Observe how well he unloads and reacts to a new place.

It’s smart to have the seller ride him first again. If the horse also behaves well when you ride him, he’s a serious contender. Thank the seller very much for his time, as he’ll have now put a lot of effort into doing what you asked.

If you’re interested in buying him, say you want the horse vetted – by your vet, not his!

Now is the time to ask about trial periods if this is something you want and make sure both parties agree on their individual obligations in writing.

Trying out a new horse is very exciting. But our hearts have a tendency to rule our heads, and we can easily come home with the wrong animal. Remember, a bad horse costs just as much to buy and keep as a good one – and is much harder to get rid of!

Following these 5 tips will help you find your perfect horse, and keep your money firmly in the bank until you do.

Perfect Boarding Barn

What to Look For in the Perfect Boarding Barn

Keeping your equine partner at a horse boarding barn is not cheap. If the facility is poorly maintained or has an unfriendly atmosphere, you’ll be paying good money to be unhappy. But with smart investigating you can find the perfect boarding barn for you and your horse.

Take this list on your barn trips to help you ask the right questions.

Horse Care

Horses’ Appearance

Do the horses appear healthy and content?
Or are they thin and dejected?
Are any of them coughing? Do they have runny noses?

Stalls

Stall dimensions of at least 12’ x 12’ are preferable. Your horse will spend many hours in there and needs room to move around comfortably.
Are the stalls clean with enough bedding? Make sure your horse can lie down without scraping the floor and that stalls are cleaned at least once a day.
Can the horses see their neighbors? Being social creatures, horses like to see their fellow boarders.

Barn Ventilation

Is there a gap between the top of the outside walls and the roof to let air in? There should be no gaps in the walls themselves.
Does the barn let in natural light?
Is there dust in the air?

Aisles

Are the aisles free of dangerous items like pitchforks and wheelbarrows?
Are they wide enough to pass through easily?

Pasture

How large are the pastures?
Do they contain grass or are they overgrazed? If he has insufficient grass your horse will get bored and be miserable.
Are there too many horses in each field?
Are the horses compatible? Is there any fighting?
Is the fencing safe and secure? Barbed or regular wire is extremely dangerous to horses.
Is there broken fencing? This can cause injury.
Is there debris in the field? It must be clear of anything which could harm your horse.
Is there adequate shelter for horses on pasture board?

Turnout

What are the winter and summer turnout hours?
Is turnout at least 8 hours a day? (Or whatever number of hours you’d like for your horse.)
What is the inclement weather policy? Most barns don’t turn out if it’s raining. If the weather is bad for days on end, your horse will be stuck in his stall: you’ll need to exercise him more often.
What care is provided if your horse is sick?
If he’s on stall rest, will you have to pay extra? He’ll need additional stall cleaning and hay, so it’s not unreasonable to pay more, but you’ll want to know how much!

Hay

Hay is expensive: here’s where unscrupulous barn owners save money.
Is the hay of good quality? Is it musty?
Is it the right type of hay for your horse?
Are the horses given separate piles in the field to prevent bullying? Watch for bossy horses preventing the others from eating.
How much hay will your horse get daily? If you have a large horse he will need more hay than the average.

Water

Clean water must be available AT ALL TIMES!
Do the horses have 24/7 access to water in their stalls and in the field?
Is there more than one trough in the paddock, so dominant horses can’t prevent the others from drinking?
Are the water buckets and outdoor water troughs heated?
How does the barn deal with the problem of ice in winter?

Feed & Other

How often, how much, and what are the horses fed?
Can you bring your own feed? You don’t normally get a break in price if you supply your own.
Supplements and medication – Does the barn add these to the feed free of charge?
Is worming included in monthly board?
Are blankets put on and removed as necessary?
Will a staff member hold your horse for the farrier or vet? At what charge?
Security and safety – What type of insurance and security does the barn have? What insurance do you need?
Must the horses be vaccinated? Do all the horses need a negative Coggins? If the answer is ‘no’ to either question, avoid the barn at all costs!

Rider Care

Riding Facilities

Is there a riding arena? Does it have an all-weather surface?
Can it accommodate the number of boarders?
How often is it occupied by lessons? Do lesson times conflict with when you can ride?
Is the footing too deep or shallow?
Is the arena regularly graded to ensure a smooth and safe riding surface?
Are jumps available, if you need them?
Is there clutter in the arenas? Equipment left lying around is aggravating and potentially dangerous.
Are there neighboring riding trails?
Does the barn have a free style horse exerciser? This is extremely useful for those days when you can’t ride. A covered walker is even better, as it allows you to exercise your horse during inclement weather.

Storage and Bathroom Facilities

Is there a locked tack room for your saddle and bridle?
Is there storage for your other horse equipment, such as blankets and grooming kit?
Is there a restroom?

Riding Instruction

Must you use the barn’s instructor or can you bring your own?
If you have to use the barn’s instructor, watch several lessons. Is he/she the right fit for you?

Hours of Operation

What are the barn hours? Are you locked out on holidays?
Can you come late, after work?
Can you come early in the morning before work?

Ambience

Hang around the barn and soak in the atmosphere.
Is everyone friendly and welcoming?
Is this a one-discipline only barn?
You’ll feel more comfortable if some boarders ride the same discipline and at the same level as yourself.
Do the riders treat their horses with kindness and consideration?

You and your equine partner will spend a lot of time at the barn. You both need to be happy, so take your time and check out a lot of places. When you find the ideal barn, you’ll be very glad your research was so thorough – and so will your horse.

Horse Exerciser Track

Constructing the Horse Exerciser Track

The Horse Exerciser Track beneath the EuroXciser is an important feature. There are many construction options to consider prior to installing the machine. What are the required steps to build a solid track base? What material should be used for the footing? How much footing material is needed? What planned maintenance cycles are needed? Getting the track correct enables the support, traction and cushion required for your horses as they exercise in the machine. In this two part blog, we review the construction approach with the associated tradeoffs for the horse exerciser track. The steps are similar to constructing a horse arena, with the track receiving more repetitive path use. In our second blog, we review building the Horse Exerciser Footing that sets on top of the track base.

Start with a Solid Foundation

Now that you have selected the location of your EuroXciser, it’s time to build a solid foundation for the machine, with the desired quality of solid compacted ground. The picture to the right shows the general arrangement of the track, consisting of the sub base, geotextile cover, base, footing and fencing.

The initial work scope focuses on the sub base at the planned machine location. Although the horses exercise on the track, it is important to prepare the entire machine pad to achieve a consistent grade, compaction and drainage so the track performs as desired.

Scrape the organic and surface soil to expose the sub soil ground. This may vary from a few inches to 6 inches or more. The goal is to reach the sub soil / sub base ground.
Grade the sub base pad area flat – 0% grade – so the track provides an even surface for the horses to exercise on
Establish a slight grade within the static ring area to facilitate water drainage from the center.
Compact the sub base to near maximum density

The compaction should be 92-97% if using the Standard Proctor Density per ASTM D698. The soil type may vary depending on your geographic location. A licensed contractor in your area will understand this and know how to achieve a near maximum compaction based on the soil type being more granular to more cohesive. In some cases, adding material is required to improve the sub base such that it compacts properly. The end result will be similar to a unpaved road base; firm compacted ground.

During this phase, the following should also be constructed:

the drain system/drain lines for the center ring.
the electric runs from the power drop, to the planned controller and machine center.
the cement mounting pad for the machine base.

IMPORTANT: Do follow to the manufacture’s power and install requirements. Do use a licensed contractor and meet local codes and requirements. Do have the existing underground lines marked before any construction grading or trenching occurs in the planned area for safety reasons and cost of damage reasons.

If the sub base has aggregate rocks, it’s worth while to add a geotextile fabric on the track between the sub base and the base. The fabric keeps the rocks from moving up into the base and footing of the track. Once the fabric is placed, add the base material on-top. There are many options available for the base material. The overall goal again is to create a solid surface. Local material can influence the best cost options, and some common choices include (and are not limited to):

“A” gravel topped by stone dust (also known as bluestone, #10 screening, limestone screenings),
Granular “D” material,
Decomposed Granite (DG)

The base should be at least 4 inches thick, and compacted to 92-97%. Like the sub base, the base must be flat – 0% grade. The correct moisture level during the compaction process will yield a road like base. A properly constructed sub base and base will provide:

a flat track surface for the horses to exercise on
a durable surface that does not rut or sink
a stable surface to add footing to control the impact absorption qualities desired

Getting the grade and the compaction correct is key to having a solid durable track. An example of a DG base is shown to the right. Porous asphalt is also an option for the base, and creates a solid base to build your footing from. An example of a porous asphalt track is shown to the lower right.

Most manufactures suggest the machine mounting pad be constructed a certain height above the grade, such that after the final base is completed and the footing is added, the partitions are at the correct height relative to the ground. Review this information ahead of time so you can plan out the steps to meet these requirements. With the track, pad, electrics and drainage set, it’s time to install your horse exerciser machine.

In our next blog we will review choices and options for the footing to provide the right impact absorption and traction for your horses.